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I wanted a 3 axis stepper driver for my CNC Router project, but the only ones I could find were grossly expensive and didn't fit with my strategy of a CNC machine built for under $250. So I made my own driver board based on a K179 single channel driver, the circuit for which is readily available on the internet. Unlike the K179, I didn't feel the need for an "offline" or "stand alone" mode, so the components necessary for that option are not on my board. In order to drive motors, you have to be connected to a PC. This card is good for about 4A, although the IRFZ44 output FETs can handle about 6A without heatsinking (my card does not use heatsinks), the trace width is more of a limiting factor than the components themselves. These cards have been tested and work just fine with my 53 oz/in M061-FD02U Superior Slo-Syn stepper motors (200 steps/rev 5.0v 1.0A DC 6 wire) and MO62-FC03 65 oz/in motors (5.3v 1.6A DC 6 wire). I run them at 12v with current limiting resistors. There is provision for 3 limit switches through a terminal strip on the board. I found that much of the information on the internet about CNC routers didn't make much sense to me, but I was able to get my machine working without too much trouble once I received these cards and wired them up. If you are adrift, but want to do this sort of a project this card is a good way to get your feet wet and build a project around. It's not big enough to move really serious loads, but these motors work great on my machine (even though some people think they are way too small). If you want to build a CNC machine in your basement without spending a fortune, this is a good driver to use. My machine drives a Dremel tool around quite nicely, and cuts both balsa and model aviation plywood. This is an electronic item. I have tested each of the boards I have and all work on all three axes. If you hook up something wrong and fry the board, it's not my fault, therefore you're stuck with it. Unless you set the thing on fire, it can most likely be repaired. All of the logic chips are in sockets and the output FETs are easily replaced by simply unsoldering them. Also please note that the back of the board is not insulated and will require non-conductive standoffs (or you can paint it with a non-conductive enamel I suppose). Finally, note that I made a mistake in my PC board layout and it has been revised with a piece of wire on the back of the board. This sort of fix is common on PC cards and works just like the printed circuit. I'll send you a photo of the fix if you are nervous about it. |